🏜️ Exploring Cathedral Valley Loop: Capitol Reef’s Remote Off-Road Wonderland
- Switching Gears RV Diary
- Dec 15, 2024
- 5 min read
Welcome back to our continuing series on Utah’s lesser-known scenic routes and remote backcountry adventures! Last week, we uncovered a fantastic boondocking site just outside Capitol Reef National Park, dove into a bit of park history, and took you off the beaten path on a nearby trail.
This week, we’re heading deeper into Capitol Reef’s wild side—into a section few visitors reach. Join us as we explore the Cathedral Valley Loop, a 60-mile off-road journey that winds through remote desert landscapes, towering monoliths, and hidden geological marvels.
If you're looking for solitude, rugged beauty, and the thrill of exploration, this route is one for your bucket list.
🚗 What Is the Cathedral Valley Loop?
Located in the northern district of Capitol Reef National Park, the Cathedral Valley Loop is a scenic backcountry trail made for adventurous travelers with a high-clearance 4WD vehicle. Spanning approximately 60 miles, the loop cuts in and out of National Park and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands, offering a full spectrum of dramatic desert views, remote campgrounds, historical landmarks, and geological wonders.
This off-road route starts and ends at Highway 24, which runs along the northern edge of Capitol Reef. For this trip, we chose to enter via Harnet Road and exit near Caineville, moving clockwise.
🌊 The Fremont River Crossing: Adventure Right From the Start
As soon as you turn onto Harnet Road from Highway 24, you're met with one of the loop’s most iconic (and potentially challenging) features: the Fremont River crossing. This isn’t your average creek splash—depending on recent weather and snowmelt, this river can be deceptively deep and sandy.
We were a little nervous—it was our first time crossing a river of this size in Casper, our 4WD truck.
Tip: Always start the loop from this end, just in case the river is impassable. It’s better to find out at the beginning than after you’ve already committed to a full-day drive.
🏜️ The Beauty (and Risk) of Bentonite Clay Roads
Not long after the river crossing, the landscape shifts to a rolling terrain of bentonite clay hills—gorgeous in color but tricky in bad weather. When wet, bentonite turns into a sticky, impassable mess. Fortunately, we had dry weather, but the road still required caution with occasional deep washes and bumpy stretches.
If you're planning this trip, check road conditions in advance (we've included resources at the bottom of this post).
🧭 First Stops: Jailhouse Rock and the Cathedral Valley Overlook
About 15 miles in, we reached our first major stop: a spur road leading to Jailhouse Rock. This Entrada Sandstone monolith towers over the desert floor, capped with a hard layer that protects it from erosion. To get there, you’ll drive a short 1.2-mile spur and then walk about a quarter of a mile. It’s well worth the detour for a closer look at this natural sculpture.
Another must-see viewpoint lies just ahead—a spur to the Cathedral Valley Overlook, where the sweeping landscape below seems to stretch endlessly in every direction.
⛺ Primitive Camping in the Clouds: Cathedral Valley Campground
Sitting at 7,000 feet, the Cathedral Valley Campground is a great place to stop and enjoy the serenity of the area. It’s first-come, first-serve, free to use, and has six primitive sites plus a pit toilet. If you’re lucky enough to snag a spot, you’ll wake up surrounded by natural monoliths in one of the most remote corners of Capitol Reef.
This is a true boondocker’s paradise—no crowds, no fees, no hookups, just solitude and stars.
🐄 Cowboy History: Morrell Cabin and Cathedral Trail
From the campground, the road descends narrow switchbacks down into Cathedral Valley. Along this stretch, we took time for two short hikes:
🥾 Morrell Cabin
A half-mile round trip brings you to a rustic log cabin once used by cowboys in the 1930s for seasonal cattle drives. It’s a fascinating window into the area’s more recent past and a scenic spot for photos.
🥾 Cathedral Trail
This short trail brings you closer to the massive monoliths that give Cathedral Valley its name. The towering rock formations rise from the desert like giant sculptures—each one different, each one breathtaking.
🌋 Hidden Wonders: The Gypsum Sinkhole and Glass Mountain
Back on the main road, we turned off to see two of the most unusual geological features in the area:
🌪️ The Gypsum Sinkhole
A short walk from the end of a spur road leads to the edge of a massive sinkhole—200 feet deep and 50 feet wide, formed when groundwater dissolved a subterranean gypsum dome. It's a surreal sight and a reminder of how dynamic the desert can be.
💎 Glass Mountain
Just beyond, we reached Glass Mountain, a glistening mound made entirely of selenite crystals. The natural formation sparkles in the sunlight and looks like it belongs on another planet. Please enjoy this wonder without touching or removing crystals to preserve its delicate beauty for future visitors.
🛻 The Final Stretch: Bumpy Roads and BLM Backcountry
After exploring the Temple of the Sun and Moon monoliths (more on those below), we began our return route along BLM land. This final portion of the loop brought more bentonite hills, open desert, and a few sketchy washes that had us grateful for our 4WD and high clearance.
Cathedral Valley Road itself was pretty bumpy, and while it wasn’t the worst we’ve driven, it definitely earned its reputation. We’d recommend calling ahead for road conditions, especially if there’s been recent weather activity.
⛪ Temple of the Sun & Moon: The Icons of Cathedral Valley
Arguably the most famous landmarks in Cathedral Valley are the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon, two towering Entrada Sandstone monoliths that rise dramatically from the valley floor.
Their sheer size and symmetry are awe-inspiring. It’s easy to see how early travelers and settlers gave them such reverent names. This stop is also near Glass Mountain, making it one of the most jam-packed segments of the trail in terms of natural wonders.
📌 Essential Tips for Driving the Cathedral Valley Loop
Planning to make this journey yourself? Here's what you need to know:
🚙 Vehicle:
High-clearance 4WD recommended
Avoid after rain or snow—bentonite becomes impassable
⏱️ Time:
Plan for 6–8 hours (longer if stopping frequently)
Start early to avoid driving in the dark
📶 Navigation:
No cell service in most areas
Download offline maps or bring a GPS device
🛑 Check Before You Go:
☎️ Capitol Reef Road Conditions: (435) 425-3791
🔮 What’s Next?
Thanks for joining us on this incredible adventure through one of Utah’s most remote and visually striking areas. Cathedral Valley delivered everything we hoped for and more: raw beauty, solitude, and an unforgettable sense of scale.
Next week, we’re heading into the heart of the San Rafael Swell, where we’ll discover another boondocking gem and explore landscapes that feel like something from Mars or the Moon.
Make sure you subscribe, follow along, and don’t forget to share your favorite remote Utah trails in the comments!
Happy trails, and see you on the next dusty road.
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