🌌 Boondocking Bliss Outside Capitol Reef: Scenic Drives, Petroglyphs & Trail Misadventures

Switching Gears RV Diary
Dec 8, 2024
5 min read

December 8, 2024

Part 5 of Our 12-Part Series Exploring Utah’s Remote Wonders

🧭 Why We Keep Coming Back to Hanksville

After falling head-over-hiking-boots for the rugged beauty near Goblin Valley, we steered deeper into Utah’s red rock country—this time, to the quiet edges of Capitol Reef National Park.

Our next basecamp? A boondocking site along Notom-Bullfrog Road, where we scored front-row seats to jaw-dropping canyon views, crystal-clear night skies, and—believe it or not—a faint shimmer of the Northern Lights.

⚠️ It’s worth saying: this stretch near Hanksville may not be as famous as Zion or Arches, but it’s easily one of Utah’s most underrated and unforgettable gems.

🚗 The Scenic Drive: Moonscapes to Rainbow Cliffs

Our adventure kicked off on Highway 24, one of Utah’s most stunning byways. While we’ve driven this road before, this time we slowed down, determined to savor every shift in color—from lunar-gray hills to vibrant coral cliffs that looked like an underwater reef brought to the surface.

The desert seemed to change clothes with every curve, glowing gold in the afternoon and blushing red at sunset. 🌅

🏕️ Finding the Perfect Campsite on Notom-Bullfrog Road

Utah is full of boondocking opportunities, but Notom-Bullfrog Road is something truly special.

We parked at a rim-side site just east of Capitol Reef’s boundary—no 4WD needed, but the view? Absolutely 5 stars.

Why This Site Stole Our Hearts:

🏞️ Uninterrupted canyon views from our tailgate
🚫 No traffic, no generators (until later…)
🚶‍♂️ Close to great trails and scenic turnouts
🧘‍♀️ Quiet mornings, epic stargazing nights

With the ramp down, breeze flowing through the RV, and only the sound of wind echoing across sandstone, we could feel it: this was the kind of moment we travel for.

🏜️ Capitol Reef: A Quiet Park with Deep Stories

Among Utah’s "Mighty Five," Capitol Reef often gets overlooked. That’s a win for those of us who prefer wide open spaces over shuttle buses and silence over crowds.

This time, we entered from the east, catching golden-hour light near the visitor center. The red cliffs glowed, and the crowds thinned just enough to remind us why we keep coming back.

🪨 Rock Art & Ancient Echoes: The Fremont Petroglyphs

Just off Highway 24 lies one of Utah’s most accessible ancient rock art sites. A short boardwalk leads you to etched sandstone panels carved by the Fremont people, who lived here between 300–1300 AD.

🌀 Figures, animals, and symbols dance across the rock—silent storytellers whose meaning remains a mystery.

Even without knowing their exact purpose, the presence of this ancient art creates a connection across centuries. They stood where we now stand, navigating the same canyons, finding meaning in the same cliffs.

🍎 Historic Fruita: Orchards, Schoolhouses & Frontier Life

As we wandered deeper into Capitol Reef, we passed through Historic Fruita, the once-thriving farming village founded by Mormon pioneers.

🌳 The orchards are still here—apples, peaches, pears—and you can even pick your own fruit during harvest season.

We popped by the Fruita Schoolhouse, built in 1896. Just one room, one blackboard, and a world of stories. It served as a school, church, dance hall, and town meeting place.

History doesn’t get more hands-on than this.

🪵 One Family, One Year, One Tiny Cabin

Before heading back to our canyon campsite, we detoured to a tiny log cabin built in 1882. It caught our eye for its size—and its story.

A large family once crammed into this cabin for an entire year:

👧 Girls slept in a wagon bed
👦 Boys slept in an alcove behind the cabin
👨‍👩‍👧‍👦 Parents + babies squeezed inside

That kind of perspective really makes our RV feel like a luxury suite. 😅

😤 RV Etiquette & an Unexpected Bump in the Road

Back at our picture-perfect campsite, things took an unfortunate turn.

A group of RVers pulled in right next to our fire pit—despite literal miles of open space. Worse? They were wearing heavy perfume.

For me—someone with Multiple Chemical Sensitivity (MCS)—this isn’t just annoying. It means headaches, breathing issues, and shut windows in the middle of nowhere, forcing us to run the generator and seal ourselves inside.

💡 A Lesson in Boondocking Etiquette:

Leave space when there’s space
Avoid noise, bright lights, or strong scents
Respect shared solitude
Ask before parking close

Fortunately, the group later apologized. They were tired and didn’t think—a little honesty and kindness goes a long way.

🛞 Hitting the Trails: Loop & Sand Wash

To reset, we jumped into Julius (our side-by-side) and hit the Loop and Sand Wash Trail, thinking it would be a breezy ride.

It wasn’t. 😅

Our “easy” trail rating quickly turned into washed-out sections, deep sand, and moments of "Are we stuck?"

But you know what? The best views are often behind the hardest roads.

We detoured onto a side trail just because it looked interesting—and it ended in a sweeping, 360° view of Capitol Reef’s badlands. Worth every jolt.

❗ Trail Ratings ≠ Reality

This wasn’t the first time a trail marked “easy” surprised us.

A Few Trail Tips We Swear By:

🧭 Always scout ahead when possible
🧰 Bring recovery gear—even if you “probably won’t need it”
🌦️ Watch the skies—Utah’s weather can change fast
📱 Download offline maps and trail info (cell service = spotty)

We didn’t finish the full loop, but we gained something better: confidence, clarity, and killer photos.

📍 A Quiet Stop at the Notom Memorial

On our way back to camp, we made one last stop—the Notom Memorial, a simple tribute to early settlers in this rugged land.

No fanfare. Just a quiet plaque, sagebrush, and a reminder that people before us lived, loved, and endured here.

🌄 Final Thoughts: Why We Camp

The sun dropped behind the cliffs. We reopened the windows. The perfume had faded. And the canyon—painted in orange and lavender—felt like it belonged to us again.

This is why we chase these places:

To disconnect
To re-center
To witness moments you can’t schedule

We don’t expect perfection. We just want real. And this week delivered that in spades.

🔜 What’s Next: The Cathedral Valley Loop

Coming up next in our 12-part Utah adventure series:

📍 The Cathedral Valley Loop🗿 Remote roads, towering monoliths, and one of the most photogenic drives in Utah.

Expect rough terrain, surreal rock formations, and more stories from the road less traveled.

🎥 Subscribe on YouTube💬 Leave a comment if you’ve explored Notom-Bullfrog Road🔔 Hit the bell so you don’t miss our next episode

💬 Let’s Hear From You!

🎯 Have you ever had a challenging trail mislead you with an “easy” label?💨 Or maybe dealt with boondocking neighbors who missed the memo on space and respect?

Tell us your stories in the comments—we’d love to hear how you handle those tricky moments on public land.