🍂 Chasing Gold: A Fall Road Trip Through Gothic, Judd Falls & Emerald Lake Near Crested Butte, Colorado

October 27, 2024

There’s something undeniably magical about autumn in Colorado. The crisp air, golden aspen groves, and deep blue skies combine to create scenes that feel straight out of a painting. And nowhere is that more evident than around Crested Butte, a mountain town known for its world-class skiing, but even more so for its breathtaking fall color drives.

After driving one of the state's best scenic routes the day before, we woke to a postcard-worthy sunrise over Mt. Crested Butte, staying with friends who have a front-row seat to this alpine paradise. And just like us, the neighbors( the deer) were outside early — soaking in the view.

We were about to set out on a full day of exploration: ghost towns, waterfalls, alpine lakes, and, of course, a few miles of the most colorful roads you’ll find anywhere in the Rockies. So, grab your layers and let’s take a trip through Colorado’s golden season!

☕ Morning Fuel: Breakfast in Downtown Crested Butte

Our day began with breakfast in downtown Crested Butte, a charming and walkable town that manages to blend a laid-back mountain vibe with just enough artsy flair. Whether you're grabbing a cinnamon roll the size of your head or a hot espresso from a local coffee house, there's no better place to start a Colorado morning.

With full bellies and warm drinks, we piled into the truck with our niece and her husband following us— they came to joined us from New Mexico — and hit the road to our favorite autumn drive just outside of town.

🛤️ The Gothic Road: Fall’s Finest Backdrop

Our route started north of Mt. Crested Butte on the Gothic Road (County Road 317), one of the most scenic byways in Colorado. Though the pavement ends shortly after leaving town, the gravel road is well-maintained and drivable for most vehicles during dry weather. And in fall? It’s a golden tunnel of aspens that seems to stretch endlessly toward the mountains.

The road winds through the East River Valley, a place bursting with fall color and historic significance. As we rolled deeper into the canyon, the bright yellows and oranges of the trees gave way to the gray shadows of Gothic, one of Colorado’s more storied ghost towns.

👻 Gothic: The Ghost Town That Refused to Die

Perched at nearly 9,500 feet, the ghost town of Gothic, Colorado, was founded in 1879 after prospectors struck what they hoped would be silver riches. For a brief moment, Gothic boomed — boasting up to 8,000 residents, although the official 1880 census only reported 1,000.

It quickly earned a reputation as a lawless and wild frontier town. Miners hanged a Chinese man for attempting to open a laundry. One of the town’s founders was arrested for murder — and escaped not once, but twice. Still, it attracted attention, including a visit from former President Ulysses S. Grant.

But Gothic's heyday was short-lived. By the 1890s, the ore dried up and nearly everyone left — except for Garfield Hall Judd, the self-proclaimed “Mayor of Gothic.” He stayed until his death in 1930, famously hanging a sign over his saloon that read “The Man Who Stayed.”

Today, the remaining buildings are used by the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory, which purchased the town in the 1920s. It’s now a base for high-alpine ecological research and is one of the most important field stations in the U.S. While visitors can’t explore the town freely (it’s private property), the views from the road are stunning and well worth the drive.

🥾 Judd Falls: Waterfall Hike at 10,000 Feet

Just up the road from Gothic is one of our favorite hikes: Judd Falls, named after — you guessed it — Garfield Judd.

If you’re in a regular vehicle, you can park at the lower trailhead for a 2-mile round-trip hike. If you have a high-clearance, 4WD vehicle, you can continue to a higher parking area, cutting the hike to just under 1 mile round trip. Either way, the trail is moderately easy with stunning views of the valley below and Mt. Baldy above.

At nearly 10,000 feet elevation, the thinner air made me think twice. I’d seen the falls before, so I sent my husband, niece, and her husband ahead while I caught my breath. (Full disclosure: I handed off the camera to my niece and said “Film it!” without asking. Luckily, she’s a good sport.)

They returned grinning from ear to ear. The falls were flowing strong, framed by fiery aspens and steep cliffs — a quintessential Colorado fall scene.

🏔️ Avalanche Paths & Narrow Roads

As we continued north, the road narrowed to a shelf drive with dramatic drop-offs and incredible views. If you look over the edge, you’ll see avalanche debris — remnants of the powerful snow slides that carve paths through the forest each winter.

In early summer, this stretch of road is especially dramatic. Crews carve single-lane paths through towering snowdrifts. It’s both exhilarating and a little terrifying, and a reminder of how wild this region really is.

💎 Emerald Lake: A Jewel at the End of the Road

Eventually, we took a left at the fork and followed a short spur to Emerald Lake, a glacial-fed alpine lake that shimmers with jewel-toned blues and greens. The surrounding cliffs reflect off the still water, and in autumn, the surrounding slopes blaze with color.

It’s cold — really cold — thanks to year-round snowmelt. But if you’re feeling bold (and maybe a bit crazy), it’s a popular spot for an icy dip.

Emerald Lake marks the end of the easy drive. If you were to continue on through Schofield Pass, you'd be headed toward Schofield Ghost Town and eventually the infamous Devil’s Punchbowl, considered the most dangerous 4x4 road in Colorado. But that’s a story (and drive) for another day.

🏚️ Schofield & Pittsburg: Ghost Towns Lost to Time

Just beyond Emerald Lake lies the former townsite of Schofield, founded in 1881. At its peak, it had a hotel, mill, post office, and more. But by 1885, it was all but abandoned. Today, nothing remains of the original structures — nature has reclaimed nearly everything.

The same is true for Pittsburg, another ghost town further down the pass. Despite the romantic name, the buildings you see today are modern summer homes, and the land is privately owned. It's a reminder of how transient many of these mining towns were — rising and falling in less than a decade.

🌲 Final Stretch: Saying Goodbye to Fall & Family

Our niece and her husband had to head back to New Mexico, so we made the most of our remaining time, stopping at scenic overlooks and pointing out campsites along the way down the pass. The beauty of Colorado in the fall is that even the drive home is an experience.

Next week, we’ll continue our autumn road trip over Ohio Creek Pass, another lesser-known but jaw-droppingly scenic route.

✅ Travel Tips for Exploring the Gothic Road Area

• Best Time to Visit: Mid-September to early October for peak fall color

• Road Conditions: Gravel after Mt. Crested Butte, generally passable in dry weather

• Altitude Awareness: Many stops are above 9,000 ft — hydrate and take it slow

• What to Pack: Layers, hiking shoes, snacks, water, camera, and offline maps

• Private Land Notice: Respect boundaries near Gothic, Pittsburg, and summer homes

• Wildlife: Keep an eye out for deer, marmots, and even moose in high-alpine areas

📍 Our Route at a Glance

1. Start: Mt. Crested Butte

2. Gothic Road – Fall foliage and alpine views

3. Gothic Ghost Town – Historic buildings and scenic vistas

4. Judd Falls Hike – Easy/moderate trail with waterfall views

5. Emerald Lake – Short drive with rewarding alpine scenery

6. Schofield Pass & Pittsburg – Ghost towns with stories (but no structures)

🧭 Final Thoughts: A Day Well Spent in Colorado’s High Country

Whether you're in it for the fall colors, the history, or just the thrill of driving Colorado’s backroads, this trip around Crested Butte has it all. From the ghostly remains of Gothic to the brilliant blues of Emerald Lake, this is a slice of the Rockies you won’t soon forget.

And while the towns may be gone, the stories — and the scenery — live on.

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